Upcycle like a Princess
The Rule of Five gets Royal endorsement! Kate's wardrobe upcycling shows there's no need to buy new - just follow these tips and tricks
With an oversized bow, a striped belt, and a matching hat and brooch, the Princess of Wales proved her sustainable style credentials again last weekend. Yes, she scored points for the chic monochrome outfit she wore to the Trooping the Colour parade, but style watchers were quick to notice that her dress - a simple white Jenny Packham shift - had been at a previous function. This time, it was almost totally unrecognisable, proof of what creative upcycling can do for your closet.
As everyone who reads this Substack knows, new is no longer the go-to option - there’s actually much more fun to be had reinventing what you’ve already got.
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I found this out last year when, with the help of a clever seamstress, turned an old Prada silk dress into a much more functional peplum top, (and then converted a disastrously skinny Victoria Beckham skirt into sporty daywear).
City influencer Helena Morrissey vowed not to buy anything new for a year, but her heavy schedule of functions and outings still demanded a rich wardrobe of options. “I’ve upcycled several old-fashioned evening dresses by modernising the style,” she told me. One formal evening dress she felt drowned by, she turned into a rather fabulous jumpsuit, another rather shapeless gown was given fantastic new life with a halterneck and embroidered tie.
With her courage up, her most successful alteration was more intentional: she had bought a Gabriela Hearst silk evening gown “knowing it wasn’t quite right, but I had a design in my head inspired by Downton Abbey.” Helena used a dressmaker to remove the “bunny ear epaulettes” and replaced them with beaded flowers. “It’s been a winner ever since.”
Converting high value occasion pieces can seem daunting. While a trip to the dry cleaner might suffice for a hemline, more ambitious projects require the help of a dressmaker. For this, Helena and many others turn to designer Lisa Redman, whose bespoke business has been hijacked by her talents for upcycling. “It was born out of my clients bringing back pieces for alteration because they had changed shape over the years,” explains Lisa, “and we just ended up getting more and more creative. The problem with occasionwear is that you can spend a lot of money on something, then only wear it once or twice.” Go to upcycles include altering the silhouette or upgrading the neckline, “perhaps adding a frilly shoulder,” or making a belt, clutch bag, moon band or oversized corsage from leftover fabric. One client brought her a treasured Lanvin dress with stains on the skirt - Lisa beaded over them with splashes of crystal and ivory pearls. “The result was absolutely stunning,” she says.
Wedding gowns are another category ripe for conversion. Lisa recently upcycled one by making a lace collar for a cashmere coat from the train, and turning the rest of the dress into a simple shift with a contrasting Wedgewood blue lining. Other genius conversions include adding halter necks to strapless dresses, making big, floppy fabric flowers from excess hem fabric and switching out fasteners on a Miu Miu coat to big, velvet covered buttons. “I’d never advocate for doing something really risky,” Lisa cautions, “but you can do simple, quite effective things. Try adding an insert of grosgrain ribbon down the side of a garment for a sporty feel. Or try the same trick on a sleeve seam.” The secret is to keep it elevated by using high end silks and fabrics.
But if you don’t want to resort to a dressmaker, plenty can be done with accessories. Tania McNab of jewellery website La Maison Couture swears by Catherine Osti’s statement cuffs. “They are available in many different fabrics and colours, and added to the cuff of a sweater or jacket make a fantastic upgrade,” she says. “Or I wear them on my wrists with a sleeveless dress, which changes the style entirely. Treat collars and cuffs like jewellery - I love to play around with them.”
Tania also recommends the lace and organza collars of Azima Musayeva, “which instantly lift a shift dress”.
“My other go-to is a brooch. Brooches are seeing a massive comeback, and the mere addition of a sculptural pin added to a lapel, cleavage or even attached to a belt can make a real statement. I once pinned pearls and a selection of sparkly earrings to the lapel of a dinner jacket.” For real drama, the fashion set look to Sonia Petroff. The brand’s recent revival of surrealist costume jewellery has been a hit with the summer crowd from Portofino to Ibiza. “When I think I might have worn the maxi dress one too many times - I just cinch one of Petroff’s jewellery belts round the waist,” says Tania.
Social media is of course teaming with ideas. The Re:Directory on Instagram has tonnes of great resources, try also Studioreloved, Save Your Wardrobe, and lived_in_repairs. Lydia Boulton is an influencer whose reels are endless sources of joy. Inspired by a Nur Kuraata design, she recently converted a vintage 50s strapless dress into an entirely different design, with some judicious cut outs and scrap silk roses. Her videos talk you through the step by step process.
Meanwhile Maryam Elasawe is a good follow for students with balls and proms to go to. With a mission to “relove and renew” Maryam says, “How are we meant to go out and socialise if we’re always wearing the same clothes? That doesn’t make you feel amazing. So I renew all my clothes every few months. One Self Portrait dress I wore to Ascot and then a charity ball, but by Christmas I wanted something different. I bought it for £300, so it was quite risky as it was expensive, but I was looking for infinite wear. I put the sleeves around the neckline to give it a bit of character - then remade it again six months later for a garden party. I made it shorter and added a new skinny shoulder strap. The possibilities are endless, especially if you buy something well made, as it won’t deteriorate over time.” If you want to start doing this for yourself, Elasawe recommends learning the art of unpicking: “it’s the most valuable skill a seamstress can have.”
And there’s my absolute go-to for these kind of reinventions - Save Your Wardrobe. They just reworked a dress for Georgia Stidwell: a 1980s vintage cocktail dress of her mum’s, that she wanted to get more wear out of. “I absolutely loved the dress, but it was bodycon, so I found it difficult to wear. I always loved the sleeves and the beaded detailing so that is what inspired me to upcycle it.” Just book a consultation with one of their makers, agree on the conversion, then they arrange collection and delivery. You don’t even need to leave the house. Genius!
When you consider that at least a third of our wardrobes go unworn, the potential for upcycling is waiting for you. “Once you’ve got the bug, it's limitless,” says Lydia. “There’s so much textile already in existence and all these resources can be given a new life.” Helena agrees: “It’s very satisfying turning something unloved into something wonderful. I would encourage anyone who has things hanging in their wardrobes they don’t wear to picture the possibilities.”
Whether you just want to turn fabric scraps into scrunchies, or matching moon bands, (so much less silly than a hat), or want to go for a full blown reinvention - I can guarantee this is so much more satisfying than trawling the internet for yet another dress. Try it and see!
If you are enjoying this campaign (and don’t worry, I know 5 is hard, but its a journey) think about sharing it with a friend. Good for the planet, good for our wallets, great for our imagination.
How is everyone getting on? Any clever upcycles to share?