I've Been Shopping
Do you hear the cry of well thought out satisfaction? That's me! Making good decisions!
Warning: no trends here, just very good dressing.
I am in month 3 of the the second year of the Rule of Five campaign, and am so delighted by the effect it is having on people. I get messages all the time from women who feel emancipated with the permission to buy less. (Just last night: “Given me such a framework”; “buying my first item of the year when I get paid next week and genuinely excited by the prospect”; “made me think completely differently about fashion”). The frenzy fashion likes to whip us into makes us buy into ill thought out trends or unflattering styles (horseshoe jeans? I mean good luck with that…). Our desire to fit in and keep up has left us feeling ‘less than’ and yet we know that when we get it right, the confidence means everything.
Finding your style is not as easy as it sounds, but it’s definitely fun trying. Feeling ‘bien dans ma peau’ as the French would say. For some cool girl French chick this is an oversized blazer, a pointy boot, messy hair and yesterday’s kohl. She’s looked good like this for decades and still does. Or it’s the loose fit pyjama and layered jewellery of an Ibiza bohemienne. She never changes. Or the shorts, mid calf sock and trainer from a downtown New Yorker, cool in the 80s, 90s - and still now. Who are you? What do you love wearing? What looks great on you? When you see a trend or a piece you’ve just GOTTA have, ask yourself if it really works with who you are. Ultimately most trends are cyclical, build your wardrobe wisely (and to suit you) and those pieces you retired a few years ago will come back.
My golden rule of a two week cooling off period always reveals where the real desire lies. I’ve also learned not to buy online because you cannot be certain of quality and fit. You do not build meaningful relationships with garments through a screen. You need to touch, feel, try on. (I bought two pieces from a second hand online site last year one of which I have yet to wear. When you are only buying four things second hand a year, that is credit squandered!).
I’ve also thought a lot more about my own personal style. It has led me to reformulating a lot of the clothes I already own, tailoring jackets, shortening hems, transforming dresses into tops and skirts. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable process! I have also darned sweaters, embroidered over rips, learned how to remove stains and home dye. A pair of jeans I bought in 2020 had become a little tiring, as I was wearing them all the time. The style is Mom jeans which is fine, if a little boring. So I sent them off to Fanfare The Label earlier this year and they came back with this brilliant rope embroidery. I’ve worn them almost non stop since I got them back (with a smart Jil Sander jacket the denim looks very luxey, they also work with a Breton top and a red lip).
For those of you following this campaign for the first time, I hope you have pinpointed something lovely to buy, and are anticipating or enjoying your first purchase of the year. It feels so good when you save up for it, right? (Don’t worry if you have overshot and bought too much already - this is just like a diet. Get back on the wagon and try again). This time last year I got myself a white shirt that I researched exhaustively before finding the perfect one. As I write this I’m wearing September’s second hand Toteme polo neck, which has had so much use as a layering tool under dresses, shirts, knits and jackets.
But having built my wardrobe cleverly with the good quality essentials - fabulous pair of navy trousers, oversized jacket (or two), white shirt, loafers, camel coat etc - I realised this isn’t entirely who I am. I am this girl, but I’m also the one that wears gold cargo pants, a purple and pink pyjama suit, a chiffon green puff sleeve top, an embroidered Alice Temperley house coat. So when I went charity shop shopping with Emily London, I loved the Charles Tyrwhitt menswear shirt we found in British Heart Foundation, but what I actually went back to buy was a black crochet skirt.
Shopping vintage, you have to be careful not to fall into eccentric mode. A lot of those charity shop shoppers can look a little ‘bin end’ or ‘mad bag lady’. Elegance must be practised at all times - reduction is everything. As Coco Chanel used to say ‘Always take one thing off before you leave the house’. Here’s the skirt. I got it from SK Vintage in Kentish Town:
Owner Sarah had it on a mannequin in the window in January, and I used to drive past it all the time, wondering. Then she changed the window display, but the skirt wouldn’t leave my head. When would I possibly wear a see through skirt? Would it look good with a slip underneath it? Or could my legs take it?
The weeks went by, but I still thought of it. It’s an outrageous piece, hardly an every day item. I passed someone on the street wearing a white shirt, blazer and a black tulle skirt (very Molly Goddard) and I was sold. I went back to the shop. If it was still there, I was going to try it on, visions of dance floors, date nights and hot summer days in my head. It was still there.
We talked a bit last year about the 80/20 guide. How 80% of your clothes need to be hard working, practical basics, and 20% personality pieces. File this skirt under gold cargo pants. What I discovered with the gold pants was that they brought the joy. And fashion is about joy. Maybe this skirt is about sex - or attraction? I’ve no idea when I’m going to wear it - best find a party to go to. Is it a styling challenge? Too right. OWas it a waste of my precious clothes allowance? nly time will tell!
How are you doing? What have you bought? How does it feel to be almost a quarter of the way through your challenge?!
Talk to me!
Tiff x
Absolutely adore the skirt and hopefully it becomes a favourite in your wardrobe.
So far this year I’ve bought 2 pieces, both of which I love and are bringing me lots of joy. I found that I had lots of simple minimal items in my wardrobe but nothing that was bringing much fun. I plan to use my 5 pieces this year to add just that. It’s definitely going to be a challenge to stick with just 5 but I’m trying my best. And it will definitely be way less than last years 45 items 😱
Wow the embroidered jeans idea is so cool and so clever! Love this piece Tiff, really inspiring. I’ve started my own Substack charting my journey towards a more sustainable style. Sunday’s post will cover shopping preloved. Might see you there! x